D & M Perlman Fine Jewelry & Gifts

Once there was a dream – to produce a more brilliant diamond than had ever been seen before...And we’ve done it!

 The History of the 144-Facet® Diamond

History lessons which are based on complex mathematical formulae are not the most exciting topics! But, to understand what the differences are between a 144-Facet Diamond and everyone else’s diamonds, a little background is helpful. This web page attempts to explain in the most succinct way possible what a 144-Facet Diamond is, how it came about, and why it is the “World’s Most Brilliant Diamond”®. For more information, feel free to come in to our store and one of our diamond experts will be happy to explain everything in more detail. And while you’re here, take a look at the 144-Facet Diamond in person and see for yourself the brilliant difference!

Diamond Cutting Evolution

Diamonds have long been coveted for their impressive hardness and resistance to scratching, and their incomparable property of producing brilliance as light travels around and inside the stone. A diamond’s ability to produce brilliance has to do with its transparency, its ability to bend light, and its ability to be faceted and polished to an extreme, unsurpassed by any other gem.

In the early days of diamond cutting, both the cutting equipment and optical science were far less sophisticated than they are today. It was the customary and accepted practice to save as much of the precious diamond crystal as possible. As a result, most diamonds cut before 1900 were deliberately irregular in shape and often poorly faceted, in an effort to save weight. For many years, the standard way of faceting a diamond was to use a general pattern called the Old Mine Cut. This very old design had wide parameters, very little accuracy, and no standard proportions. The shapes and faceting were irregular, and produced stones that were not very brilliant. In time, the European Cut was developed. This facet pattern was produced with slightly more regularity, and was brighter than the Old Mine Cut. It also had more facets, 58, although this number often varied due to lack of modern cutting equipment and capabilities. Then, in 1919, a European mathematician looked at the diagram for the European Cut and refined it. His design called for more exact angles, with a more triangular and cone-shaped Pavilion (bottom part), and a more shallow Crown (top part) with a wider Table (top) facet, as well as a thinner and more uniform Girdle (central band). His diagram of this 58 facet stone was based on mathematical calculations of where light rays hit the diamond, and thus, where facets should be placed to help reflect that light. Improved techniques in cutting and polishing were also developed, and the modern-day 58 facet diamond, the Round Brilliant Cut or ideal cut diamond was produced. This is the same diamond facet pattern which is the basis for all diamonds produced today, other than the 144-Facet Diamond.

The Birth of the 144-Facet Diamond

Some fifty years after the 58 facet pattern was standardized, thanks to a greater understanding of optics, light refraction (how light behaves once inside a diamond), and light wave analysis, and thanks to the advent of newer and more accurate microscopes, testing equipment, recording devices, and computer simulation, an even more brilliant diamond pattern was created! This pattern had the narrowest tolerances yet, and completely re-engineered the middle and bottom portions of the diamond. The Girdle was polished and completely faceted, and the Pavilion was reshaped to be more parabolic than cone-shaped, as in satellite dishes and car headlights, in order to increase internal light reflection (brilliance!). The number of facets was tripled on the Pavilion, and the diamond now had 144-Facets instead of 58. The result was the production of the 144-Facet Diamond, or Modified Brilliant, a diamond pattern that took into account how light rays behaved inside the diamond rather than just how they bounced off of the surface facets. Through precise proportioning, extra faceting, and changes in facet angles, this new design captured and held in more light, and increased brilliance by causing more internal reflections. The internal light rays bounced off of several facets inside the diamond before exiting the stone, and the exiting light rays were refocused into a more compact zone.

This exceptional combination of discovery and creation led to the very first ever patented diamond facet pattern, and the 144-Facet Diamond was born! For nearly five decades the 144-Facet diamond has remained the ultimate achievement in the art of diamond cutting. The 144 has been granted over 20 international patents and trademarks, acknowledging its superiority. Among the many awards and acclaims received, perhaps the proudest achievement of recognition came when the Carl Zeiss Optical Laboratory independently tested the 144-Facet Diamond and found it to be 32% more brilliant than the 58 facet diamond. Zeiss, the creator of the first moon camera lenses and the world-renown name in ultra high-grade precision optical lenses, determined that due to the 144’s unique ability to lock in light, prevent it from escaping out the sides and bottom of the stone, and refocus it out through the top of the diamond, nearly one-third more visible light is reflected out of the 144! Regardless of what other diamond dealers or jewelry stores claim, NO OTHER DIAMOND has ever been OPTICALLY TESTED AND PROVEN to be as brilliant as the 144-Facet Diamond. And the GIA, Gemological Institute of America, the world leader in teaching, technology, and diamond grading uses the 144-Facet Diamond diagram on all diamond grading report plots of our diamonds, an acknowledgement of its uniqueness.

In recent years, a myriad of trademarked and patented facet patterns have been developed. But, these newer cuts were created primarily to enhance retail sales and marketing ability, rather than to maximize brilliance. No diamond pattern has ever been tested and proven to be as brilliant as the 144-Facet Diamond. D & M Perlman is exceptionally proud to be the only cutters of this diamond in the world, and we can’t wait to show you our diamonds!

Click here to see an amazing video of the 144-Facet Diamond!


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